Cartier Tank Vermeil Gold Plated Rare Coral Dial 90s (Unpolished/Serviced)

Cartier Tank Vermeil, ref. 5057001, gold-plated silver case with rare coral red dial and recently serviced manual movement

Cartier Tank Vermeil

Cartier is one of the most recognized names in watchmaking, with roots going back to Paris in 1847. The brand built its reputation on elegant jewelry and dress watches, and its timepieces have been worn by royalty, heads of state, and public figures throughout the 20th century. Cartier occupies a space that sits between high jewelry and serious horology, and its watches are widely respected for their design heritage as much as their technical execution.

The Tank is arguably Cartier's most iconic watch design, introduced in 1917 and inspired by the aerial view of WWI military tanks. It has been produced in dozens of variations over the decades, and the Tank Vermeil is one of the more distinctive of those variants. Vermeil refers to gold-plated sterling silver, making it a more accessible entry point into the Tank family compared to solid gold versions, while still maintaining the same essential case architecture and character.

The Tank Vermeil was produced primarily in the 1970s and carries the aesthetic sensibility of that era — relatively compact proportions, clean lines, and a focus on elegance over complication. These watches run simple manual-winding movements and are valued today as collectible vintage pieces. Dial variants, including colored dials, are particularly sought after among collectors, as they represent a more unusual configuration compared to the standard white or silver options.

Key Details To Consider

The Cartier Tank Vermeil is one of the more understated references in the Tank family, and this example presents well for its age. The gold-plated silver case measures 20 x 28 mm and is being offered in unpolished, original condition. There is normal wear consistent with use, but the gold plating remains intact across the entire case with no signs of flaking or lifting — a notable point for a piece of this vintage.

The dial is the standout feature here. The coral red colour is rare and genuinely hard to find in good condition, as most surviving examples show cracking or significant age-related deterioration. This one is in excellent shape, with the colour holding true and the surface remaining clean.

The manual winding movement was serviced in May 2026 and is running well. The watch arrives on a new 15mm black Cartier strap fitted with a gold-plated Cartier pin buckle, which suits the case appropriately and is ready to wear straight away.

This is a solid opportunity to acquire a collectible and relatively uncommon variant of the Tank in honest, original condition.

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